I have written the guides below with the layman in mind to enable you to use our products without using a tradesman. However, if you are still hesitant to DIY then it is always a good idea to use an experienced professional.

Our products are very easy to use and the main thing you need to do is make sure your loft space is safe to walk around in: we don't want you falling through your own ceiling!  If you have a safe boarded out loft, you're well on your way to having your house Sheepsulated! If you don't it's not essential, we'll show you how to walk on the joists and set up a temporary 'safe to walk and work on' platform.

Helpful Guides

All Images & Text © 2008-2010 - r. perry. 'Sheepsulation' is a registered trademark in UK & USA, pending worldwide. 'Natural Wool Insulation',
'Something To Bleat About', 'Our Fleece Won't Fleece You' and 'Get Sheepsulated, Get Sheepsulaton' are advertising slogans and trademarks pending and not to be used or reproduced without written permission including downloading and printing.

Roof structures initially seem complicated to the average individual; I remember when I was at university studying construction and being baffled by it, but actually it's quite simple. I then ran my own construction company for the best part of 10 years so I have first hand experience!

For the purpose of insulating your roof you only really need to know the basics, so i've taken some photos to help you understand them. Most pitched roofs consist of a framework which has rafters, purlins, joists and a wall plate which are the essential parts of the structure. Rafters are the timbers that run from the apex (the top), down to the eaves - (the bottom). Purlins span the framework and are usually built into and supported by each gable end (not shown) and their purpose is to support and strengthen the rafters and spread the load of the roof. Often depending on the size of the roof, stabilzers can be installed to reduce other directional movement caused by winds and physical forces. The wall plate is a length of timber fixed to the top of the blockwork of the walls that the roof sits on and helps to secure the roof to the walls.

Joists do not appear in every roof but the majority of roofs have them. Joists strengthen the roof and help spread the load of the roof structure between the perimeter walls the roof is sitting on and are also used to create the framework for a floor.  If you have a loft conversion, the structural engineer will usually ask for joists and rafters to be reinforced to prevent the roof from bowing and to add extra support for the overall load. This reinforcement also reduces the structural walls of the building from adverse movement or bowing from the additional load of a new floor etc.

So for the purpose of installing Sheepsulation, natural sheeps wool insulation, you should install it between the joists and the rafters. See above photo. This may involve removing old worn glass wool insulation. We do have different products for different uses such as cavity walls etc see 'how to use Sheepsulation products' below. You must ensure your roof can breath and so we recommend leaving a gap of 1.5" - 2" between the topside of the insulation and the inside of the roofing felt, floor boards or top edge of the joists - see sketches below:

There are two types of roof: warm roofs and cold roofs. Warm roofs are where insulation is installed on the top or outer side of the rafters and cold roofs are where insulation is installed between the rafters or joists. You can insulate between both but you have to ensure the roof is well ventillated and that it can breath. The reason is to prevent build up of damp and condensation and to reduce adverse effects upon the timbers such as mould growth, drying out etc which are all bad news although I did test the method of using both on my roof and some of my clients roofs when i've undertaken loft conversions and haven't had any short term problems (over a 2 year period) and these lofts are like saunas!

Whatever You Do, Don't Do This!

How To Use Sheepsulation Products

Working Safely In Your Loft

How To Measure Your Loft Floor Area

Working in your loft or on your roof can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing, so here are some useful titbits to help increase your safety and prevent any accidents. If you are unsure then you should employ an experienced tradesman to undertake the work for you. You should wear work boots if possible and a pair of goggles but using sheeps wool you don't necessarily need a mask unless you have an allergy to sheeps wool. You must use gloves, goggle and mask to remove any old fiberglass or rock wool insulation.

Access to the loft is obviously the most important. You have to ensure you can enter and exit the loft space or roof easily and securely. If you have a loft hatch, the majority of people will have an extendable loft ladder which is pulled down and clipped into place. If you don't have one, you can use a small ladder. I would advise against using a step-ladder as these are unstable for this purpose. If you enter your loft regularly it may be a good idea to have a loft ladder installed. Make sure your ladder has both feet or rails firmly on the ground and set up at an incline of between 65-80 degrees or it may slip and topple. See below.

Pull your loft ladder down using both hands or it may slide out quicky and hit you in the face! There are many different loft ladders with different working mechanisms. Mine is attached to the framework of the hatch so it is secure when in use. Always climb up and down the ladder FACING the ladder or you may slip and fall. (i've used one hand here as I had to hold the camera).

You should now have safe access to your loft. You should also use a light that can be fixed or hung to a rafter or somewhere that it doesn't need to be held. You can also use workman's lights on an extension lead or, some people have lighting installed on a switch. The reason for not using a torch is that it is safer to have both hands free.

Walking around in your loft is usually safe providing you walk on the right parts! If your loft isn't boarded out, you must initially only step on the joists and not between them or YOU WILL FALL THROUGH YOUR CEILING. The safest thing to do is lay some temporary walking boards that you can lay across several joists to spread your body weight. Use 1/2" - 3/4" chipboard or a similar thickness of plank. You could whack a couple of nails through to the joists to stop the board moving temporarily. Check for any old rotten timbers - if you see these, do not walk on them. Depending on the structure of your roof, you may have little space to walk around in, but you must not cut away any of the framework or you may seriously weaken your roof.

General Inspection of your roof / loft space can be made to see if any old insulation is worn out, if any leaks are apparent, if any timbers are rotten and if any brickwork needs re-pointing, as now is the time to do it. If your finances don't stretch that far or you don't think it is necessary, I would advise that at least you check for any damp or leaks before you install new insulation or you may have to re-do the entire job if leaks are found afterwards. If you are unsure, use a tradesman/contractor for advice.